Wax Injecting

Yigal Sharabi

<div class="jnlc-container" id="jnlc-container"> <img src="http://static1.shopify.com/s/files/1/0014/5692/files/WaxInjec.jpg" width="360" height="200" class="floatLeft" /> wax injecting When choosing a wax brand to use, a number of factors must be taken into consideration. The wax should have a good mixture of both hardness and flexibility. It should be able to melt at a relatively moderate temperature. The wax should never adhere to the mold. it needs to be flexible enough to be easily removed from the mold, but strong enough to bend without breaking. Depending on the worksite environment, it may be necessary to change wax types. Drastic seasonal temperature differences may affect the consistency of the wax making it harder or softer than usual. Some waxes are plasticized to help them harden and minimize breaks. This technique is especially effective for detailed or delicate models. Wax can be purchased in bulk block or in flake form. Approximately two pounds of wax will melt into one quart of liquid wax in the wax injecting machine. Wax injectors fall into two major categories. The first type uses a manually operated injection pump. The pump is pushed down creating pressure in the tank, while the mold is pressed against the nozzle and filled with wax. The second type of wax injector uses air pressure contained in the tank or created from a separate air compressor to create the necessary amount of pressure to force the wax into the mold. Typical models of each have about a one quart tank, thermostatic controls, a built-in thermometer, drain, an opening to add wax to the tank and an injection nozzle. The injection nozzle is usually placed very low in front or sometimes on the bottom of the tank. The nozzle's shape must exactly match the spruce opening in the rubber mold. A tight fit is necessary to ensure proper pressure when injecting wax into the mold. The nozzle is mounted on a spring mechanism. When it is pressed in by the mold, a lever is released, injecting the wax into it. When the rubber mold is removed from the nozzle, the lever slides back to it's original position stopping the flow of wax. The average working temperatures for the wax should fall between 140-160 degrees Fahrenheit (60-71 degrees Celsius). When preparing a rubber mold for wax injection, each half's mold cavity must be coated with talc or a releasing spray. This lubricates the mold and keeps the wax from sticking to it. When using talc, it can be administered with a brush or a cloth bag. Make sure to blow away the excess talc as any loose remainder can affect the mold. After lubricating the mold, put it together and place a flat masonite pressure board on the top and bottom sides. Using the boards is essential for creating even pressure when gripping the mold together. Keep firm pressure on the mold and press the open spruce end against the injector nozzle. The wax will then fill the mold cavity in a matter of seconds. Some practice runs may be necessary before the final model can be made correctly. Any excess wax, along with any mistakes, can be melted and reused. After making the injection, keep pressure on the rubber mold for about a minute to allow the wax to solidify. Allow the mold to cool for an additional one to five minutes before removing the wax model. When removing the model, try and avoid any excessive bending of the mold. This can distort or break the model and cause unnecessary wear on the rubber mold. Begin the removal process at the spruce end and carefully remove the upper half of the mold. Then, gently bend the bottom half back to release the wax model. After the wax model has been released, inspect it for any surface faults. If there are any faults that cannot be easily fixed, scrap the model and try again. After checking for surface faults, check the model for even thickness in the wax. Do this by holding the wax up to a light source. The light will create a contrast between the thicker and thinner portions of the model. Minor defects can be fixed with an electric wax welder. Small pits and seams can be filled with additional wax. Any fins can be scraped off with a knife. If there are a large or constant amount of fins in the model, this could be an indication the mold is wearing out and needs to be replaced. Make sure to take time and pay special attention to the wax model. It is much easier to repair a wax model rather than repairing a finished metal casting. Visual Step-By-Step Wax Injecting Step 1 Fill wax pot and heat to specific injection temperature. It is important not to overheat the wax. Step 2 Using a cloth bag filled with talc or Silicone Mold Release Spray, coat the insides of the mold cavities. Open mold fully by bending it backwards in order to reach all areas. It is not necessary to do this each time before injecting mold. Step 3 Adjust air pressure on wax injector to between 3 and 10 pounds. Higher pressure can be used if necessary. However, for best results keep pressure under 15 pounds. Step 4 Place the rubber mold against the nozzle on the pot and inject the heated wax into the empty cavity. After injecting, let the wax cool for about a minute before attempting to remove it from the rubber mold. Step 5 Peel open rubber mold and remove the wax piece. The piece must then be monitored for quality and accuracy before casting can take place. <a href="/pages/manufacturing"><img src='http://static1.shopify.com/s/files/1/0014/5692/files/Back1.png' alt='' /></a> </div>

2008-07-17T13:16:53-04:00

wax-injecting 351402

2008-07-17T13:16:53-04:00

145692

Wax Injecting 2008-11-04T12:47:48-05:00 <notextile><div class="jnlc-container" id="jnlc-container"> <img src="http://static1.shopify.com/s/files/1/0014/5692/files/WaxInjec.jpg" width="360" height="200" class="floatLeft" /> wax injecting When choosing a wax brand to use, a number of factors must be taken into consideration. The wax should have a good mixture of both hardness and flexibility. It should be able to melt at a relatively moderate temperature. The wax should never adhere to the mold. it needs to be flexible enough to be easily removed from the mold, but strong enough to bend without breaking. Depending on the worksite environment, it may be necessary to change wax types. Drastic seasonal temperature differences may affect the consistency of the wax making it harder or softer than usual. Some waxes are plasticized to help them harden and minimize breaks. This technique is especially effective for detailed or delicate models. Wax can be purchased in bulk block or in flake form. Approximately two pounds of wax will melt into one quart of liquid wax in the wax injecting machine. Wax injectors fall into two major categories. The first type uses a manually operated injection pump. The pump is pushed down creating pressure in the tank, while the mold is pressed against the nozzle and filled with wax. The second type of wax injector uses air pressure contained in the tank or created from a separate air compressor to create the necessary amount of pressure to force the wax into the mold. Typical models of each have about a one quart tank, thermostatic controls, a built-in thermometer, drain, an opening to add wax to the tank and an injection nozzle. The injection nozzle is usually placed very low in front or sometimes on the bottom of the tank. The nozzle's shape must exactly match the spruce opening in the rubber mold. A tight fit is necessary to ensure proper pressure when injecting wax into the mold. The nozzle is mounted on a spring mechanism. When it is pressed in by the mold, a lever is released, injecting the wax into it. When the rubber mold is removed from the nozzle, the lever slides back to it's original position stopping the flow of wax. The average working temperatures for the wax should fall between 140-160 degrees Fahrenheit (60-71 degrees Celsius). When preparing a rubber mold for wax injection, each half's mold cavity must be coated with talc or a releasing spray. This lubricates the mold and keeps the wax from sticking to it. When using talc, it can be administered with a brush or a cloth bag. Make sure to blow away the excess talc as any loose remainder can affect the mold. After lubricating the mold, put it together and place a flat masonite pressure board on the top and bottom sides. Using the boards is essential for creating even pressure when gripping the mold together. Keep firm pressure on the mold and press the open spruce end against the injector nozzle. The wax will then fill the mold cavity in a matter of seconds. Some practice runs may be necessary before the final model can be made correctly. Any excess wax, along with any mistakes, can be melted and reused. After making the injection, keep pressure on the rubber mold for about a minute to allow the wax to solidify. Allow the mold to cool for an additional one to five minutes before removing the wax model. When removing the model, try and avoid any excessive bending of the mold. This can distort or break the model and cause unnecessary wear on the rubber mold. Begin the removal process at the spruce end and carefully remove the upper half of the mold. Then, gently bend the bottom half back to release the wax model. After the wax model has been released, inspect it for any surface faults. If there are any faults that cannot be easily fixed, scrap the model and try again. After checking for surface faults, check the model for even thickness in the wax. Do this by holding the wax up to a light source. The light will create a contrast between the thicker and thinner portions of the model. Minor defects can be fixed with an electric wax welder. Small pits and seams can be filled with additional wax. Any fins can be scraped off with a knife. If there are a large or constant amount of fins in the model, this could be an indication the mold is wearing out and needs to be replaced. Make sure to take time and pay special attention to the wax model. It is much easier to repair a wax model rather than repairing a finished metal casting. Visual Step-By-Step Wax Injecting Step 1 Fill wax pot and heat to specific injection temperature. It is important not to overheat the wax. Step 2 Using a cloth bag filled with talc or Silicone Mold Release Spray, coat the insides of the mold cavities. Open mold fully by bending it backwards in order to reach all areas. It is not necessary to do this each time before injecting mold. Step 3 Adjust air pressure on wax injector to between 3 and 10 pounds. Higher pressure can be used if necessary. However, for best results keep pressure under 15 pounds. Step 4 Place the rubber mold against the nozzle on the pot and inject the heated wax into the empty cavity. After injecting, let the wax cool for about a minute before attempting to remove it from the rubber mold. Step 5 Peel open rubber mold and remove the wax piece. The piece must then be monitored for quality and accuracy before casting can take place. <a href="/pages/manufacturing"><img src='http://static1.shopify.com/s/files/1/0014/5692/files/Back1.png' alt='' /></a> </div> </notextile>